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Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives, and I was on board (Part 1)

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Virgin Atlantic has been having a good year. The airline is once again growing its route network, with more destinations added this year than we have seen for some time including Dubai, the Maldives and Turks & Caicos.

What connects them all is a strong demand for premium leisure – arguably Virgin Atlantic’s bread and butter.

The catalyst for these routes, we have been told, was strong demand from Virgin Holidays.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

Virgin Holidays was merged into the airline business as part of the pandemic restructuring. It gave Virgin Atlantic greater incentive to fly to more popular holiday destinations rather than booking passengers on competitor airlines.

Flights to the Maldives initially launched in late October with three direct weekly flights competing against British Airways and the Middle Eastern airlines. The schedule runs as follows

  • Outbound flights operate on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, departing Heathrow at 6:30pm and arriving in Male Velana Airport at 9:40am the following day
  • Inbound flights operate Monday, Thursday and Saturday, departing Male at 11:30am and arriving in Heathrow at 6pm the same day

This is a seasonal service, with flights ending on 29th March 2024. However, the route appears to be doing exceptionally well for Virgin Atlantic so it’s likely we will see it return in October 2024. There are rumours of it going daily for 2024/25.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

At the moment, flights are being operated by a Boeing 787 Dreamliner with the old coffin-style Upper Class seat which we reviewed here.

These seats are increasingly becoming a competitive disadvantage. Unfortunately we are not going to see a refurbishment or replacement until Virgin Atlantic decides what it wants to do with the planes, which are coming up to the end of their 12-year lease period.

Once the decision is taken – to replace or sign an extended lease – I’m optimistic we will see the fantastic A330neo Upper Class Suites on this aircraft or whatever aircraft they order to replace the fleet.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

The outbound flight was a surprisingly speedy 9:30 hours long. This is, in my opinion, ideal – long enough to enjoy dinner and a good long sleep before landing in Male the following morning. The return day flight is a bit longer, at 11 hours, and does drag on a bit.

I forgot how fun it is to have the bar on board, as newer aircraft now have the Loft social space instead. It’s a good opportunity to stretch the legs and a nice change of scene and the crew are attentive in bringing drinks.

As always, the crew, led by Amanda, were spectacular. She wasn’t wrong when she announced our arrival into Male by saying “well all I can say is WOW. This is somewhere special!”

Arriving in Male

Arriving in Male is a bit of a sore point. Although the airport is building a brand new terminal building (and it looks very smart), at the moment the experience is far from premium. There are no jet bridges, so everyone is bussed on and off, and the arrivals and departure terminals are in poor condition. Thankfully, immigration took all of five minutes.

Of course, 99%+ of passengers are not staying on Male or Hulumale as the nearby overflow island is being called. Virtually everyone will be connecting to one of the 180+ resort islands in the country across the 26 different atolls.

(By the way, the Maldives are much, much bigger than you think. The atolls are roughly arranged in a vertical line, and it’s over 500km between the Haa Alifu Atoll in the North to Laamu in the South.)

This means that you’ll need to take a sea plane for anything more than the neighbouring islands in the atoll. As a result Trans Maldivian Airways operates the largest fleet of sea planes in the world with almost sixty De Havilland DHC-6 Twin Otters.

The majority are in the typical white and red livery of TMA but some resorts have their own special liveries, including Sun Siyam (my destination) with its traditional Maldivian design now on two aircraft.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

As you can imagine, I was exceptionally excited as I’ve never been on a sea plane before! The new seaplane terminal is very swanky, although the process to get there is a bit of a palava. You have to drop your bags and check-in to TMA at Male Airport in an open area outside arrivals with no air-conditioning before being bussed to the new seaplane terminal.

The seaplane terminal is an impressive facility. All the major resorts have their own dedicated lounge facilities on one of the four floors where you wait until boarding. Your luggage is automatically loaded onto the plane.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

The Sun Siyam lounge is sizeable and if you’re hungry there is a range of food on offer as well as hot and soft drinks. As this is Male there is no alcohol available – alcohol is only available on the resort islands and cannot be brought into the islands, either.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

If you’re lucky, you’ll also get fantastic views of the seaplane terminal as well as the main Male Airport, too. We watched a Singapore Airlines A350 arrive.

After about 15 minutes or so we were called to board our aircraft, which necessitates a quick trot across the pontoon to the aircraft. Mind your head, because the ceiling is very low. The chairs are tiny – it feels a bit like you are in a dolls house! You can also see straight into the cockpit:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

Once the pilots had the clearance to take off they started the propellers and taxxied out across the water to the ‘runway’ before pushing the throttle. Take-off is much smoother than you’d expect, with the aircraft clipping along the waves before taking off. It is very noisy.

One of the highlights of the 45 minute flight to our resorts in the Noonu Atoll, north of Male, was the spectacular views. I don’t think I’ll ever tire of seeing lush green islands emerging from the shallow turquoise waters of the atolls:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

I even spotted The Ritz-Carlton, which we’ve written about a few times, thanks to its unique formation of villas:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

We skirted a few clouds laden with rain before coming into land with one of the steepest approaches I’ve ever experienced. Even with earplugs it’s quite a relief when the propellers come to a standstill.

In Part 2 of this article – click here – I take a look at the two resorts we stayed out during our trip, on what was easily the most activity-packed press trip I’ve ever done.


How to earn Virgin Points from UK credit cards

How to earn Virgin Points from UK credit cards (April 2025)

As a reminder, there are various ways of earning Virgin Points from UK credit cards.  Many cards also have generous sign-up bonuses.

You can choose from two official Virgin Atlantic credit cards (apply here, the Reward+ card has a bonus of 18,000 Virgin Points and the free card has a bonus of 3,000 Virgin Points):

Virgin Atlantic Reward+ Mastercard

18,000 bonus points and 1.5 points for every £1 you spend Read our full review

Virgin Atlantic Reward Mastercard

3,000 bonus points, no fee and 1 point for every £1 you spend Read our full review

You can also earn Virgin Points from various American Express cards – and these have sign-up bonuses too.

American Express Preferred Rewards Gold is FREE for a year and comes with 20,000 Membership Rewards points, which convert into 20,000 Virgin Points.

American Express Preferred Rewards Gold

Your best beginner’s card – 30,000 points, FREE for a year & four airport lounge passes Read our full review

The Platinum Card from American Express comes with 50,000 Membership Rewards points, which convert into 50,000 Virgin Points.

The Platinum Card from American Express

80,000 bonus points and great travel benefits – for a large fee Read our full review

Small business owners should consider the two American Express Business cards. Points convert at 1:1 into Virgin Points.

American Express Business Platinum

50,000 points when you sign-up and an annual £200 Amex Travel credit Read our full review

American Express Business Gold

20,000 points sign-up bonus and FREE for a year Read our full review

Click here to read our detailed summary of all UK credit cards which earn Virgin Points

Comments (60)

This article is closed to new comments. Feel free to ask your question in the HfP forums.

  • William Avery says:

    Really is notable how bad the coffin seat is these days. Perhaps my strategy didn’t work this time but I found it really hard to sleep when I had found it surprisingly comfortable before. The TV is also so dated.

    The duvet was great & PJs a big improvement on last time. Food didn’t look great so skipped the main. For info, the JNB lounge is well worth a departure from. Outstanding service and food.

    • Jess says:

      We preordered the 2 main courses but we also were given a sandwich between meals, as well as plenty of snacks being available in the galley or on the bar.

  • Tracey says:

    Did the seaplane pilot fly in bare feet? He did on our last trip, much to our amusement. I know Maldives is “no shoes, no news” but I did wonder if there was a safety issue.

  • Dee says:

    Yes! Bare feet pilots on both return trips to Moofushi! 😂👏🏼

  • Benilyn says:

    Here for the Maldives is a rip off comments 🍿

  • BB says:

    Am I the only one who really likes the coffin style seats? Some of the most peaceful flights with CX were in their coffin seats — their replacement is meh. Same with SQ’s business class replacement, the old style was so much nicer.

    Change for change’s sake?

    • Rhys says:

      Yes, you’re the only one……

      • Chabuddy Geezy says:

        I think the old Virgin seat is not that bad, but I am not that tall or broad shouldered. One thing I thought was great on Virgin was the proper pillow and thick duvet which made a huge difference to sleeping.

      • camille55 says:

        The “coffin” style seats were fairly well received on launch and I think VS even licensed the design to Air New Zealand (and it was then copied by Air Canada). IIRC, it won design awards/plaudits back then.

        It is exactly the same seat now, 20 odd years later. Only the competition, and therefore perceptions, have changed.

        On a route I used to frequent, VS have moved over to the A350 (fab aircraft), but the ‘leisure’ configuration means there are only 16 seats in the new Upper compared to 40+ on the old. I don’t mind it all, if it enables redemptions in UC on a given day.

        • Rob says:

          It’s like BA F. We’re running a review of BA A380 F on Wednesday, where I recently got 4 Avios seats in the 14 seat cabin. My chances of getting that on a refurbished 8 seat First cabin? Somewhere between nil and zero.

    • Chris W says:

      The only thing you could improve about CX’s A350 business class seats is that they don’t have a door. They are a good as reverse herringbone seats get

  • Chris W says:

    When are the 787s at the end of their lease period? Virgin don’t really have the luxury to wait a few years to decide what to do about these seats. Nobody would pay for Virgin 787 Upper where any other option existed!

    • Rhys says:

      The next few years. They are currently studying their options in terms of whether they keep the 787s and refurbish or bring in new aircraft (with the new seats)

      • ADS says:

        Boeing has an order backlog of 750 B787s – and the highest ever one year delivery was 158 in 2019

        Airbus has an order backlog of 491 A350s – and the highest ever one year delivery was 112 in 2019

        Airbus has an order backlog of under 200 A330s (excluding Iran Air etc) – so this is probably the only brand new widebody that Virgin could get their hands on within the next few years

        • jjoohhnn says:

          Virgin have 16 330/350’s on order and 17 787’s at the moment, so they could pause the 330ceo retirements and use their existing orders to replace the 787’s, although that wouldn’t allow for any fleet expansion. A single manufacturer fleet would have its advantages too.

  • mradey says:

    As of about 19:00 GMT this is the reward flight availability on VS this season to/from Male. Few and far between, especially UC. I’ve included economy for completeness .

    (if the tag doesn’t work, I’ll edit the results out)

    LHR -> MLE
    date upper premium economy
    2023-12-06 2 0 9
    2023-12-10 1 8 9
    2023-12-17 0 0 9
    2023-12-20 0 0 9
    2023-12-27 0 0 9
    2023-12-29 0 0 9
    2023-12-31 0 8 9
    2024-01-03 0 0 9
    2024-01-05 0 0 9
    2024-01-07 0 0 9
    2024-01-10 0 0 1
    2024-01-14 0 0 3
    2024-01-17 0 0 8
    2024-01-21 0 0 2
    2024-01-24 0 0 1
    2024-01-26 0 0 9
    2024-01-28 0 0 1
    2024-01-31 0 0 4
    2024-02-04 0 0 1
    2024-02-25 0 0 2
    2024-03-08 0 0 9
    2024-03-10 0 0 8
    2024-03-13 0 0 9
    2024-03-15 0 0 9
    2024-03-17 0 0 6
    2024-03-20 0 0 9
    2024-03-22 0 0 9
    2024-03-24 0 3 9
    2024-03-27 0 0 9
    2024-03-29 0 0 9

    MLE -> LHR
    date upper premium economy
    2023-12-07 0 0 9
    2023-12-09 0 0 9
    2023-12-11 7 0 9
    2023-12-14 3 6 2
    2023-12-16 0 1 9
    2023-12-21 9 1 0
    2023-12-28 3 0 0
    2023-12-30 0 0 8
    2024-01-01 2 0 0
    2024-01-04 0 0 9
    2024-01-06 0 0 5
    2024-01-11 0 0 9
    2024-01-13 0 0 9
    2024-01-15 1 0 0
    2024-01-18 0 0 5
    2024-01-20 0 0

    • mradey says:

      Well the formatting didn’t work as intended and I can’t seem to edit my reply (I understood posts could be edited for 10 minutes after posting). I think the output is still readable. Just.

    • Rob says:

      Yes, this will be a route where you need to book 11 months in advance. However, if it does go daily for 24/25 then there will be a big seat dump on the day those extra flights go on sale.

      • AspirationalFlyer says:

        Do we know if Virgin are releasing unsold seats a few days before departure? BA seem to be doing this on their route to and from the Maldives. I currently have a flight from MLE-LHR booked in economy for March…it would be great to get Premium if possible….!

        • mradey says:

          Yes, that could to be the case.

          For example today there are 5 Upper Class and 1 Premium outbound on the 6th December, whereas yesterday there were 2 Upper Class and no Premium for the same flight

          For the return flight from MLE on the 7th December there have been no change – both UC and PE still showing no availability but 2 Upper Class have been released for the next return flight on the 9th December, though Premium remains unavailable.

  • Jenny says:

    Having passed through Male around 6 times/year over the past few years, I highly recommend the CIP service. A bit like the Lufthansa F terminal experience, complete with chauffeur to/from plane and private immigration. It’s not a bad price vs other similar services internationally and avoids what can be extremely long immigration queues in the main terminal.

This article is closed to new comments. Feel free to ask your question in the HfP forums.

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