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Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives, and I was on board (Part 1)

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Virgin Atlantic has been having a good year. The airline is once again growing its route network, with more destinations added this year than we have seen for some time including Dubai, the Maldives and Turks & Caicos.

What connects them all is a strong demand for premium leisure – arguably Virgin Atlantic’s bread and butter.

The catalyst for these routes, we have been told, was strong demand from Virgin Holidays.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

Virgin Holidays was merged into the airline business as part of the pandemic restructuring. It gave Virgin Atlantic greater incentive to fly to more popular holiday destinations rather than booking passengers on competitor airlines.

Flights to the Maldives initially launched in late October with three direct weekly flights competing against British Airways and the Middle Eastern airlines. The schedule runs as follows

  • Outbound flights operate on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays, departing Heathrow at 6:30pm and arriving in Male Velana Airport at 9:40am the following day
  • Inbound flights operate Monday, Thursday and Saturday, departing Male at 11:30am and arriving in Heathrow at 6pm the same day

This is a seasonal service, with flights ending on 29th March 2024. However, the route appears to be doing exceptionally well for Virgin Atlantic so it’s likely we will see it return in October 2024. There are rumours of it going daily for 2024/25.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

At the moment, flights are being operated by a Boeing 787 Dreamliner with the old coffin-style Upper Class seat which we reviewed here.

These seats are increasingly becoming a competitive disadvantage. Unfortunately we are not going to see a refurbishment or replacement until Virgin Atlantic decides what it wants to do with the planes, which are coming up to the end of their 12-year lease period.

Once the decision is taken – to replace or sign an extended lease – I’m optimistic we will see the fantastic A330neo Upper Class Suites on this aircraft or whatever aircraft they order to replace the fleet.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

The outbound flight was a surprisingly speedy 9:30 hours long. This is, in my opinion, ideal – long enough to enjoy dinner and a good long sleep before landing in Male the following morning. The return day flight is a bit longer, at 11 hours, and does drag on a bit.

I forgot how fun it is to have the bar on board, as newer aircraft now have the Loft social space instead. It’s a good opportunity to stretch the legs and a nice change of scene and the crew are attentive in bringing drinks.

As always, the crew, led by Amanda, were spectacular. She wasn’t wrong when she announced our arrival into Male by saying “well all I can say is WOW. This is somewhere special!”

Arriving in Male

Arriving in Male is a bit of a sore point. Although the airport is building a brand new terminal building (and it looks very smart), at the moment the experience is far from premium. There are no jet bridges, so everyone is bussed on and off, and the arrivals and departure terminals are in poor condition. Thankfully, immigration took all of five minutes.

Of course, 99%+ of passengers are not staying on Male or Hulumale as the nearby overflow island is being called. Virtually everyone will be connecting to one of the 180+ resort islands in the country across the 26 different atolls.

(By the way, the Maldives are much, much bigger than you think. The atolls are roughly arranged in a vertical line, and it’s over 500km between the Haa Alifu Atoll in the North to Laamu in the South.)

This means that you’ll need to take a sea plane for anything more than the neighbouring islands in the atoll. As a result Trans Maldivian Airways operates the largest fleet of sea planes in the world with almost sixty De Havilland DHC-6 Twin Otters.

The majority are in the typical white and red livery of TMA but some resorts have their own special liveries, including Sun Siyam (my destination) with its traditional Maldivian design now on two aircraft.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

As you can imagine, I was exceptionally excited as I’ve never been on a sea plane before! The new seaplane terminal is very swanky, although the process to get there is a bit of a palava. You have to drop your bags and check-in to TMA at Male Airport in an open area outside arrivals with no air-conditioning before being bussed to the new seaplane terminal.

The seaplane terminal is an impressive facility. All the major resorts have their own dedicated lounge facilities on one of the four floors where you wait until boarding. Your luggage is automatically loaded onto the plane.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

The Sun Siyam lounge is sizeable and if you’re hungry there is a range of food on offer as well as hot and soft drinks. As this is Male there is no alcohol available – alcohol is only available on the resort islands and cannot be brought into the islands, either.

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

If you’re lucky, you’ll also get fantastic views of the seaplane terminal as well as the main Male Airport, too. We watched a Singapore Airlines A350 arrive.

After about 15 minutes or so we were called to board our aircraft, which necessitates a quick trot across the pontoon to the aircraft. Mind your head, because the ceiling is very low. The chairs are tiny – it feels a bit like you are in a dolls house! You can also see straight into the cockpit:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

Once the pilots had the clearance to take off they started the propellers and taxxied out across the water to the ‘runway’ before pushing the throttle. Take-off is much smoother than you’d expect, with the aircraft clipping along the waves before taking off. It is very noisy.

One of the highlights of the 45 minute flight to our resorts in the Noonu Atoll, north of Male, was the spectacular views. I don’t think I’ll ever tire of seeing lush green islands emerging from the shallow turquoise waters of the atolls:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

I even spotted The Ritz-Carlton, which we’ve written about a few times, thanks to its unique formation of villas:

Virgin Atlantic heads to the Maldives

We skirted a few clouds laden with rain before coming into land with one of the steepest approaches I’ve ever experienced. Even with earplugs it’s quite a relief when the propellers come to a standstill.

In Part 2 of this article – click here – I take a look at the two resorts we stayed out during our trip, on what was easily the most activity-packed press trip I’ve ever done.


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How to earn Virgin Points from UK credit cards (April 2025)

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You can choose from two official Virgin Atlantic credit cards (apply here, the Reward+ card has a bonus of 18,000 Virgin Points and the free card has a bonus of 3,000 Virgin Points):

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Click here to read our detailed summary of all UK credit cards which earn Virgin Points

Comments (60)

This article is closed to new comments. Feel free to ask your question in the HfP forums.

  • Tariq says:

    “alcohol is only available on the resort islands and cannot be brought into the islands, either.”

    What happens if you’ve brought duty free alcohol with you?

    • Blenz101 says:

      You will have broken the countries customs rules and at best can expect to have it confiscated.

    • Jess says:

      You have to leave it there and collect on your return.

      • Jess says:

        There was an inflight announcement of what to do if you had duty free alcohol

    • Amanda B says:

      Having returned from the Maldives 2 days ago I can confirm, it is detected in your suitcase, held by customs during your stay and on your return to the airport you can collect and put back into your hold luggage fir your journey home.

    • Pug206 says:

      You declare at luggage scan after immigration. You are taken to a desk where you are given a receipt, logged with your passport number, and on return in the hall where you check in your cases, there is a desk where you get your duty free back. I did this last month and works ok. Just ask a member of staff where the desk is on your outbound as it’s not easily identifiable. I kept the receipt in my passport which reminded me to collect on way back.

  • Novice says:

    I was booked to holiday at sun siyam when COVID happened and it got cancelled. Now, I reckon I will go Maldives when I tour Sri Lanka as I have slight anxiety if I book it again there might something else that happens.

    I am looking forward to your report part 2. And, after trying Virgin in coffin recently I understand why you didn’t comment on anything other than service because it’s nothing to write home about.

    • Novice says:

      * then something else might happen

      That sentence doesn’t make sense in first post. It’s too early I need some caffeine. 😂

  • Phil says:

    “This means that you’ll need to take a sea plane for anything more than the neighbouring islands in the atoll.”
    There is also an extensive domestic schedule of flights using “proper” aircraft – i.e with wheels.😉
    Disadvantage: you need to take a further boat transfer to your resort.
    Advantages: they can operate after dark and in more turbulent weather.

  • Phillip says:

    They do a fantastic job with arrivals at the main/international airport – despite multiple wide body arrivals in the mornings, processing has always been speedy. Departures are a different bag altogether but hopefully that should improve with the new terminal which will also have jet bridges. The new seaplane terminal is indeed fantastic. There is also a main lounge used by resorts without their own lounges which is very good and has a good selection of food, and a balcony overlooking the main airport runway.

  • Phillip says:

    The seaplane operation (granted predominantly TMA, although Manta Air is trying to gain ground) is very impressive. The coordination between resorts and the efficiency with which they operate is fantastic in my view. And the seaplanes really fun to fly despite the squeeze!

    • Heathrow Flyer says:

      Impressive, but eye-wateringly expensive for what is ultimately a short-hop on a prop aircraft.

      • Rob says:

        I suspect TMA only gets a fraction of the $500 or so that your resort bills you ….

  • 1958 says:

    Must take issue with “Virgin Atlantic has been having a good year”……
    Announced cessation of Austin flights
    No recommencement of Hong Kong
    No start date for Korea.
    – I would hate to see year that wasn’t “good”

    • Phillip says:

      Why is it that a good year for VS has to be flights to Austin, Hong Kong and Korea? A good year could be making other decisions about other destinations?

    • JDB says:

      And a further year’s delay to starting São Paulo.

    • Duck Ling says:

      Add the Sao Paulo on-off-on-off debacle.

      So agree.

    • The Savage Squirrel says:

      Might not be good for you, but if they managed to shed some routes that weren’t working out and replaced them with ones that do – particularly if they align with Holidays, allowing them to fill much of the plane with higher margin packages (see Jet2 for how this business model can succeed) – then that could certainly be a good year for them.

    • David says:

      A good year will be when they finally make a profit

    • Londonsteve says:

      They come across as unprofessional.

  • Alex G says:

    Holidaying in a country that has restrictions on alcohol wouldn’t bother me.

    Holidaying in a country where homosexuality is illegal, and punishable with up to eight years in prison and 100 lashes, would.

    • Tracey says:

      Is that true on the resorts?

      • Rob says:

        Obviously not.

        • Alex G says:

          Obviously yes. The resorts are in the Republic of Maldives, and their law applies.

          Whether it is enforced or not is a different issue.

        • Alex G says:

          I suspect you are right, but personally I wouldn’t spend my money in a country that has such barbaric laws still in place. I realise that rules out most Muslim countries.

    • newbz says:

      No different to Dubai, I guess?

      • zapato1060 says:

        Replying to Alex above. Unfortunately that rules most of the world!!! I think a cyanide pill might be in order.

  • sturgeon says:

    I love Virgin and didn’t mind the coffin seats but on reflection they’re so lacking in space and privacy I’m now totally avoiding them. I wouldn’t mind for a night flight to be fair as the flip over bed isn’t bad but a day flight? No thanks and especially not for the insane surcharges to North America. When are these leases actually up, you say it’s fairly soon in the article?

    • HampshireHog says:

      Premium better than coffin class on a day flight in my view

      • Jess says:

        We had UC seats out so had use of the lounge and had a decent sleep and then had PE on the day flight return. It was really comfortable and had plenty of room. I agree that these seats are fine for a day flight

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